Treat passes with the greatest respect. It is usually best to do a Grade 3+ pass in the company of someone who has done it previously before attempting it on your own. If you are the more adventurous type and would like to try a pass on your own for the first time, make sure you do your homework thoroughly and get advice from someone who has already done it. Rather ascend an unknown pass than try to descend it, and preferably do it without a backpack.
The passes listed on this website are those which gain you entry to the escarpment and Lesotho, where the average altitude above sea level is around 3000 metres. Because of the height climbed (which may exceed 1 km), the thin air, the distances involved, their steepness and even their remoteness, Drakensberg passes are among the greatest physical and mental challenges that a hiker can face in South Africa. None of the so-called lower Berg “passes” qualify for this list.
The passes have been listed in north to south order to facilitate their location on a map. The notation in brackets after the name of the pass on the maps is its reference number. Some passes were never assigned a reference number or may not even be marked on the maps.
The condition of the passes varies considerably. Some can be easily negotiated by beginners, while others will require the use of proper climbing ropes in some sections. Conditions are also affected by the time of year – in winter some of the passes may be iced up and too dangerous to use, and in summer they may be too wet.
Some passes are steep – often nearly vertical in places – and may have narrow ledges or require some clambering with both hands and feet. Hikers may feel exposed, vulnerable and apprehensive at times. Rather gain experience on the easier passes first before attempting one that may be beyond your present mental and physical capacity to cope with. The more difficult passes should only be attempted by the advanced hiker with above-average stamina and sure-footedness, and are unsuitable for the unfit, the very young or those who suffer from vertigo. On the other hand, the reward for climbing a pass is a sense of considerable achievement, camaraderie and magnificent views. It is like rock climbing, but without the bling!
Plan your hike so that you can spend a full day climbing or descending the pass of your choice. It is also a good idea to spend one or two days in the lower berg before attempting a pass, because this will allow some acclimatisation and perhaps prevent or reduce altitude sickness. The walk-in to the base of a pass may take one or two days anyway, depending on its remoteness.
When climbing a pass, always carry ample water with you, and never pass a stream without filling your water bottle unless you are sure of the availability of water further on. The combination of heavy exertion and high altitude can quickly lead to dehydration, muscle cramps and altitude sickness.
When descending a pass you will usually find that plump people, females and older hikers are the less sure-footed members of your group. This has more to do with centre-of-gravity, foot size and joint strain than anything else. Don’t expect to take less time descending a pass than you would spend going up it. There is always a far greater danger of a fall going down a pass than climbing up one. Make sure that everyone stays focused and concentrates on where they place their feet. If anyone is distracted, they should stop and take care of the distraction before pressing on.
Take special care when crossing scree and loose boulders. When the risk of falling rocks is high, the leader should supervise the individual negotiation of difficult sections while the rest of the group remains stationary. The stationary members should be positioned so that if any rocks are loosened by the person who is moving, these will by-pass them.
Anyone who accidentally loosens a rock should yell “Rock! Rock! Rock!” so that hikers below can take cover. Those below should quickly try to judge the probable path of the rock and try to crouch behind a large boulder with their backpacks facing towards the top of the pass, keeping their heads down and using their arms to protect their heads and necks. Obviously, the bigger the gap between hikers the more time those below will have to take cover, but the rock is likely to be moving faster and less predictably as it approaches them.
Many of the more difficult passes – indicated by the notation (Rock) on the maps – have one or more crux points which may present a special challenge to the less confident hikers in the group. Here a short nylon rope of about 5 metres in length can be used to lift or lower backpacks past the obstacle. This should be the sole purpose of such a rope and it should not be used to support climbers. These crux points may become impassable in adverse conditions such as rain, snow and ice.
A “walking rope” can be used to assist less confident hikers over crux points and along exposed sections where they might otherwise give in to their fear and succumb to vertigo. A walking rope is a static (non-stretching) rope of around 6 mm diameter and 25 metres in length, of the same material used by rock climbers and yachtsmen. The rope is not usually used with anchors (climbing hardware such as nuts, cams and hexes), but is instead tied around large boulders and rock outcrops to provide some assistance and a safety net for the hiker. It can also be used as a belay provided there is someone in the group who knows how to improvise this. As a belay, the rope it tied around the hiker’s waist at one end, and the person doing the belay uses his body or a large boulder to take up (or let out) the rope as the hiker moves towards (or away from) him.
The most difficult passes (e.g. Hilton Pass and Injasuti Pass) require proper climbing equipment and an experienced climber to supervise their use. Their purpose is to provide a safety net should a clambering hiker slip and fall, and also to secure hikers safely to ledges while they wait for their companions. Anything more than this would turn a backpacking trip into a rock climbing expedition.
Never assume that you will always be able to climb or descend one of the more difficult or lesser-know passes, especially in snow, ice or poor visibility. If you come upon a crux which your group is unable to cope with, do not take a chance and do something you might not live to regret. There is no shame in calling it quits and abandoning your attempt – just a huge inconvenience and maybe a rebellion in the ranks!
