Monk's Cowl
Monk’s Cowl is a kaleidoscope of hotels, resorts, lodges, mountain cottages, golf courses, campsites, restaurants and even housing estates too numerous to mention. It is internationally famous as the home of the Drakensberg Boys Choir. The South African Air Force (SAAF) operates out of a temporary base at the Dragon Peaks resort for their mountain flying and rescue training, but there is also an airfield that is popular with glider pilots. Reginald Pearse, author of the book Barrier of Spears – the definitive authority on the Natal Drakensberg – retired here. There is a raptor centre, a youth centre and an adventure centre in the area too. As a result, holiday makers and tourists can be found in abundance, but the dramatic valleys and steep ridges of the wilderness area demand a high level of fitness and confine most of them to within a few kilometres of their lodgings. Backpackers heading off into the mountains will find solitude within the hour.
There are three routes out into the wilderness area from the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife office-cum-shop. The most commonly used follows the well-worn track up past Crystal Falls, The Sphinx and Breakfast Stream to the contour path. The alternative route up to the contour path goes via Strickland’s Pass, but this starts off downhill, is steeper and has a clamber or two. The final option crosses the Sterkspruit River in the valley below the office, then contours below a “mini” escarpment in the direction of the Makhulumane Forest, Steilberg and Jacob’s Ladder. Steilberg was supposedly the site of South Africa’s most famous UFO encounter, in which a Nordic alien established a long-term relationship with the willing “abductee” from Cathkin Park, a residential area near the base of the mountain.
The immediate and dramatic backdrop to the starting point includes Cathkin Peak, Sterkorn, The Tower and Amphlett. Hidden between these and Champagne Castle on the escarpment is the free-standing column named Monks’ Cowl. The fact that Monk’s Cowl is free-standing is frustratingly obscured from most angles and it is only from the Injasuti Wilderness Area further south that clear and unambiguous views of the peak can finally be enjoyed. More spectacular formations reveal themselves as you head along the contour path past Hlatikhulu Nek: Intunja (Gatberg), Dragon’s Back, Vulture’s Retreat and Eastman’s Ridge all start to put in an appearance.
The Monk’s Cowl Wilderness Area is home to two well-known mountain passes – the famous Gray’s Pass and the infamous Ship’s Prow Pass. Gray’s Pass has become a rite of passage for any serious Drakensberg backpacker. Unfortunately its popularity has resulted in very extensive erosion on the spur above Keith Bush Camp, so smugglers have improvised an alternative start to the epic climb which is not all bad. The main gully at the top of Ship’s Prow Pass is actually quite pleasant, but it is further down the valley that the going gets really tough. Due to its remoteness, the bottom of this pass is still a good day’s walk from the Monk’s Cowl entry point which is part of the reason that some find it so daunting. The other reason for concern is that the river is prone to flash-flooding and is notorious for changing its course, a fact which has resulted in the deaths of backpackers camping on its banks.
There are some large caves in the lower Berg area of Monk’s Cowl, along with a few smaller ones, some of which contain rock art and therefore cannot be used for overnight stops. Nkosazana Cave on the escarpment behind the top of Gray’s Pass can only be used in the dry months, but there are some fine camping spots on the Nkosazana River nearby. There are also some nice camping spots in the lower Berg on the contour path south of Sterhorn, at Keith Bush Camp and on the banks of the Mhlwazini River below Ntunja.
Road access: 5/5
The route via Winterton bypasses the Loskop settlement, but the latter route is the shorter and quicker one if you are driving from the Durban side – just beware of livestock and pedestrians as you pass through.
Parking: 4/5
Vehicles must be left in the grassed parking area behind the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife office and shop. If you are lucky you may be able to park under a shade tree, otherwise your vehicle will be very exposed to the weather. This parking area is behind two gates and a security hut and is about as secure as you can hope for. The parking area can fill to capacity over busy long weekends though.
Toilet facilities: 5/5
There are well-maintained toilets in the main building and in the campsite ablution block.
Washing facilities: 5/5
The campsite ablution facilities, which include hot water showers, have been available for use by hikers for some time now. In the past there has been a conflict of interest between campers and backpackers, but since hikers are most likely to end their hike by mid-afternoon and campers are most likely to shower in the morning or evening , there should not be a problem unless one of the parties leaves the place in a mess.
Sales: 5/5
The Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife shop sells curios and icecreams, but just outside is a quaint little restaurant which serves cooldrinks and some very basic, reasonably-priced meals. If you want something grander, you are lost for choice because once cleaned up and with your gear loaded in your vehicle, you can easily pass as a guest at one of the nearby hotels or resorts.
Atmosphere: 5/5
The main building is again an inviting thatched roof one. While there can be a lot of activity with tourists, campers, trail runners and backpackers coming and going, the imposing mountain backdrop is a constant reminder that you are indeed on the edge of a wilderness area. It is a welcoming and nice place to experience.
Overall rating: 29/30