Bushman’s Nek Wilderness Area

The Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife entry point at Bushman’s Nek is sandwiched between the South African Border Post and Silver Streams Country Estate & Caravan Park. From Underberg, head south on the R617. Turn right onto the Bushman’s Nek road after crossing the Umzimkhulu River just outside Underberg. This is a dirt loop road that re-joins the R617 further south. About halfway along this loop, turn right at the well-marked junction and head towards the mountains. The road ends at the border post. The loop road can become quite rough at times, and in summer it can be very muddy  too. However, careful driving will allow a standard sedan to reach the entry point.

Besides Silver Streams, there are several other options for accommodation in the immediate vicinity if you need to stay overnight before or after your backpacking trip or the Giant’s Cup Trail, ranging from the 3-star Bushman’s Nek Berg and Trout Resort to the rustic Bushman’s Nek trail hut. This hut is the last one on the Giant’s Cup Trail and is seldom used because hikers generally prefer not to stay over after completing the trail. It does not have electricity or hot water, but it does have mattresses and offers a very fine view of the Devil’s Knuckles. There are also several dining options and the Silver Streams Trading Store is a good place to replenish supplies, especially if you plan to stay at the caravan park or trail hut.

Despite the fact that the border post next door is equipped with a state-of-the-art computer system linked to the Department of Home Affairs’ national database, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Bushman’s Nek office is lacking in even basic landline communications. Cave bookings must be made via the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife office at Garden Castle, then they get radioed through to the Bushman’s Nek office. Though staff do try hard to avoid mistakes, this two-step booking system is vulnerable to errors, especially if you attempt to make changes to your booking. The Bushman’s Nek trail hut must be booked through Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Central Reservations in Pietermaritzburg.

There are two routes into the wilderness area from the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife entry point. The first is through the border post, giving you access to all of the overnight caves in the Bushman’s Nek Wilderness Area as well as Sehlabathebe National Park in Lesotho. You can also access the most southerly Drakensberg mountain passes via the border post. There is no need to have your passports stamped at the border post unless you intend entering Lesotho and staying there for some while. Only when you approach the escarpment well beyond the South African border post will you encounter the remnants of a low, barbed-wire border fence. The fence is in disrepair, lying flat on the ground in places and otherwise mostly non-existent. In one’s wanderings it can often be difficult to tell which country you are in unless you refer to a GPS. There is no Lesotho border post in this area, the nearest one being at the top of Sani Pass much further to the north. From the top of Bushman’s Nek Pass, looking westwards over the Sehlabathebe National Park, the ruins of the old Nkonkoana Border Gate (more usually referred to as Jonathan’s Gate) can be seen. This was Lesotho’s equivalent of the South African border post, but it has not been active for at least the past forty years.

The second route leaves the grassed area behind the public facility and follows the Giant’s Cup Trail in reverse. This route offers alternative access to the caves and passes in the most southerly section of the adjoining Garden Castle Wilderness area.

The most prominent and spectacular features of the Bushman’s Nek escarpment are the Devil’s Knuckles (also called The Three Bushmen) and the flat-topped Thaba Ngwangwe, a peak which lies further to the north across the other side of a low section of the escarpment. The Lammergeier, Thomathu and Ngwangwane passes top out on this low section, and along with Bushman’s Nek Pass and the ridge up to Tarn Cave, these routes offer by far the easiest access into Lesotho in the entire Natal Drakensberg. The high escarpment starts (or ends) at Thaba Ngwangwe and can be reached most directly via Saddle Pass and Isicatula Pass. The latter is a “pass” on the escarpment which will take you from the top of Saddle Pass (2 820 metres) to just below Walker’s Peak (3 306 metres). It is also possible to summit all three of the Devil’s Knuckles via the Knuckles Passes.

A unique feature of the Bushman’s Nek Wilderness Area is the fact that Bushman’s Nek Pass is still used by Basothos who come down on horseback from Lesotho to buy supplies at the Silver Streams Trading Store which was established in 1915. The Basothos return with their mules laden with bags of maize meal and other food items. The nearest Lesotho villages are those of Thamathu, Belebesi and Sehlabathebe, which all lie behind the Devil’s Knuckles in a southwards direction in that order. When the old Sehlabathebe Lodge was still available to hikers, it was possible to organise for mules to carry food supplies up to the lodge.

Other attractions for backpackers are the large dolerite outcrops, the many tarns, the large variety and quantity of spring wildflowers, rock art, and the enchanting appeal of Sehlabathebe National Park with its amazing rock formations in the vicinity of Irish Cave.

Road access: 3/5

The district roads off the R617 are dirt and can become rough and muddy, but they are mostly devoid of minibus taxis and mainly serve tourists and the local farming community. The scenery in this area is spectacular.

Parking: 5/5

Vehicles must be left in the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife car park under the poplar trees next to the border post. The car park is adjacent to the game guards’ bungalow so you could not want for a more secure place to leave your vehicle.

Toilet facilities: 4/5

The one and only flush toilet, housed under a thatch roof in a quaint outbuilding, scores high for cleanliness and originality. Just mind your head though!

Washing facilities: 2/5

There is no place to shower and clean up. However, the Bushman’s River is easily accessible via a paddock across the road from the entry point, and there are some lovely falls and a large pool to enjoy just upriver if you are prepared to walk around through the border post to get to them.

Sales: 3/5

The Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife office does not sell anything except hiking maps. However, the Silver Streams Trading Store and several other country restaurants are close by. The trading store is not open on Sundays and public holidays though.

Atmosphere: 5/5

This Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife entry point exudes character and is secure and welcoming. The area may be quite busy during holiday season but this does not detract from the notion that this is your starting point for something special. It is also a wonderful place to end the Giant’s Cup Trail.

Overall rating: 22/30

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