The uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, encompassing all of the wilderness areas described in this guide, is usually a haven of peace and tranquillity, with a human population density close to zero. To date, it remains one of the most crime-free places in South Africa, especially once you enter the true wilderness. When theft does occur, hungry mice, crows, ravens, baboons and genets are much more likely to be the culprits!

However, certain areas of the Natal Drakensberg have known security problems, and you should only venture there in large groups, have a night-watch system in operation, or – safer still – avoid staying overnight in them altogether. The authorities and booking clerks seldom warn visitors about these areas, probably because the incidents are infrequent (on average about two a year) and such warnings might discourage tourism.

Marauding Basothos are usually responsible for problems on the escarpment, but the vast majority of Basothos you encounter there are friendly, respectful and curious. The more rural Basothos will usually stand off from your cave or campsite and only approach closer on your invitation. Sharing what little food you may have to spare is a nice way to show them that you are equally curious about their lifestyle and want to know more about them too. However, there is always the possibility that sharing food becomes an expectation, so don’t overdo this.

Problems may arise when you encounter larger groups of less rural Basothos – those who live in a town perhaps and are just in the area temporarily. Their command of English is often poor and when they speak it they may sound overly demanding or even belligerent. Try to remain friendly, allow some leeway for the language difference, but remain cautious at the same time.

Dagga trafficking, hunting with dogs, poaching and stock invasion in the lower Berg can result in hikers and perpetrators crossing paths with each other. Conducted in a civil manner, these chance encounters are usually inconsequential, but you need to be aware that opportunistic theft may occur if you leave equipment and clothing unattended or do not secure it inside your cave or tent overnight.

The areas of concern are:

• The Amphitheatre above the chain ladders near the source of the Tugela River. Occasionally a guard is posted at the hut above the falls but he may not be of much help.
• The vicinity of Cathedral Peak, along the Bell traverse past Bell Cave and Twins Cave.
• The Ndedema Valley (Cathedral Peak Wilderness Area) from below Tlanyaku Pass to the Mhlwazini River junction, including Schoongezicht Cave, Gravel Cave, Poacher’s Cave, Leopard Cave and the campsites near the bottom of Phillip’s Folly and at the junction of the Ndedema and Mhlwazini Rivers. The Ndedema Valley is a major dagga smuggling route and a highway for the Basuthos and Zulus involved in the racket.
• Spare Rib Cave, Bannerman Cave and the escarpment from Bannerman Pass to Langalibalele Pass in the Giant’s Castle area. This stretch of bandit territory has been extended further south to include Giant’s Castle Pass and the area above it (including Giant’s Cave).

There have been several incidents on the escarpment in the areas listed above going back over the last half century, so it is likely that more than one generation of bandits has been involved. These hot spots seem to involve Basothos with a vastly different mentality to the majority of their countrymen, perhaps being influenced by the ease of access to a nearby town where they can melt away in the crowds.

When incidents do occur on the escarpment, they usually involve “illegal” border crossings by both Basothos and hikers. There is no border fence nor any border markings. Basothos consider the top of the escarpment their own and do not differentiate between Lesotho and South Africa. The grazing for their livestock is just as good either side of the theoretical border and there are no paddocks or livestock fences either. Hikers, too, will often need to check their map or GPS to determine which country they are in. You can often swap countries just by stepping across a metre-wide stream.

After an incident, the South African response has usually been to mount Police Air Wing flights over the escarpment, or to close the area concerned for a period of one or two weeks while foot patrols do a “clean-up”, but what this involves is unclear. There have been some reports from Lesotho that their police have arrested Basothos caught selling stolen hiking equipment and clothing, resulting in these thieves being jailed.

That said, there is no reason to be fearful of crime in the park – just cautious and sensible. Avoid any form of confrontation, even if it means turning a blind eye to dagga trafficking, dog hunting or poaching – at least until you return to your entry point, where you can report these incidents to the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife staff there. It would be unwise to try to contact the authorities by cell phone within sight of or anywhere near the perpetrators, because this may lead to them demanding that you hand over your phones.