Vergelegen, meaning something like “remotely situated” but sometimes also referred to as Cobham North, is one of the largest Drakensberg wilderness areas administered by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and by far the most difficult to reach. You need a vehicle with good ground clearance and preferably 4X4 to reach the entry point. Do not even consider using a normal car. There will be moments when you will think you have run out of road or accidentally made a wrong turn into a farmer’s paddock, and the mud in the wet season will have you hoping you don’t get stuck. There are several causeways to cross, at least one of which may become impassable to even a 4X4 when the river is in flood, so in summer you may have to resign yourself to being trapped at Vergelegen for a day or two until the water subsides to a crossable level.

This remoteness and difficulty of access is part of what makes Vergelegen attractive to backpackers, because there are no tourist facilities and you are unlikely to encounter other hikers either. You are more likely to encounter 4X4 enthusiasts popping in for the day, or maybe staying overnight in the very rustic campsite. This does mean, though, that many paths have become indistinct and overgrown through lack of use, making navigation a little more challenging than most other areas of the Berg.

Vergelegen offers the longest stretch of the escarpment of any Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife section of the Drakensberg, from Loteni in the north down to Sani Pass in the south. It has a high density of passes ranging from the best in the Berg to some of the most difficult. There are also many caves, several of which are on the escarpment, and most are seldom used. Probably due to poor road access, you are unlikely to encounter smugglers although there are several Basotho kraals near the edge of the escarpment. The Basothos here are quite friendly but preoccupied with tending to their herds.

Vergelegen has some unique attractions. If you prefer to climb Thabana Ntlenyana (the highest peak in southern Africa at 3482 metres) without making use of the Sani Pass road or going via a border post, you can start your summit from here. The Sulphur Spring, while not spectacular in itself, is unique to the Natal Drakensberg and points to a time in pre-history when this area was ravaged by fissures and lava flows. Bird’s Nest Cave is the most convenient base from which to visit both these features and is one of the reasons it is the most popular cave in the area. Kapper’s Mine and ruin are interesting relics of more recent history, although exactly what Kapper was mining for is a bit of a mystery. Vergelegen is rich in quartz and it is to be found on all the ridges, so maybe he thought he had found diamonds. The Evandra Rock Arch is another interesting feature and can be seen from Mkhomazi Pass on you way up to the escarpment and Thabana Ntlenyana.

Road access: 1/5

The best route is via Underberg and then Himeville but you can also travel via Impendle or from Nottingham Road on longer sections of dirt. Do not attempt access using a normal car.

Parking: 3/5

Vehicles can be parked on the lawn below the office building. There is very little shade so they will be left exposed to the weather.

Toilet facilities: 1/5

The two flush toilets in the office block are shared with the game guards and are in an appalling condition.

Washing facilities: 3/5

The showers in the office block are shared with the game guards and are also in an appalling condition. They may not have hot water. In good weather, your best option is to take a dip in the pool below the causeway nearest the office, about 1 km away. The scenery is spectacular and the water is cold!

Sales: 0/5

The office has nothing to sell, often not even the map for the area.

Atmosphere: 4/5

If you enjoy remoteness as most backpackers do, you will enjoy Vergelegen’s atmosphere. The office is really just an entry point and nothing more, so one gets the feeling of being tolerated rather than welcomed. This is no fault of the friendly game guards – just a lack of funding to upgrade even the most basic of facilities.

Overall rating: 12/30