Cobham Wilderness Area

The Cobham Wilderness Area is accessed through the picturesque little villages of Underberg and Himeville which support a thriving farming community. They are the gateway to Sani Pass and the southern reaches of Lesotho. As the road from Bulwer curves into the main street of Underberg, on a clear day you look directly at the Giant’s Cup on the escarpment ahead. This unmistakable feature, formed by Hodgson’s Peaks, is the area’s most prominent landmark, but not to be too outdone by it are the closer peaks of Garden Castle and the Bamboo Mountains rising up out of the surrounding farmland.

For the backpacker, the Cobham Wilderness Area offers a wide range of hiking opportunities starting with the self-guided, multi-day, hutted Giant’s Cup Trail suitable even for beginners. The Pholela Hut – the first on the trail – can be booked via Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s central reservations office at Queen Elizabeth Park just outside Pietermaritzburg, but if you chance your luck and there is space, you can pay to overnight in the hut at the Cobham office.

There are numerous lower Berg caves and one of the advantages of the Cobham Wilderness Area is that it is possible to cross from one valley to another via some mostly well-used routes, so it is easy to plan a multi-day hike of your own without even venturing onto the escarpment. There are several rock art sites, all unmarked on maps except for those at the Siphongweni National Monument. Ideally, visitors to the monument should be accompanied by a rock art guide, the lack of which has resulted in extensive graffiti by thoughtless unaccompanied wanderers.

Of the three mountain passes at Cobham, Masubasuba Pass is the best. This summits the escarpment in the Giant’s Cup itself – but do not be deceived by the distance involved because unless you are exceptionally fit and fast you will not be able to do this in one day from the entry point at Cobham. Once at the top of this pass you are not that far from the top of Sani Pass and you may even encounter some day-trippers from one of the mountain lodges there. If you have passports you could traverse across to the Sani Mountain Lodge and Backpackers for your overnight stay, where you can also enjoy the highest pub in Africa and some hearty meals. Amakehla Pass requires a head for heights and a steady nerve, and Minaret Pass is really too dangerous to use. The area in Lesotho above the latter two passes is dominated by the beautiful Pitsaneng Valley where you are almost certain to encounter local herdsmen except in the depths of winter. The peace is only slightly disturbed by the clanging of sheep bells and shepherds’ dogs warning of your intrusion.

Road access: 4/5

Once you have passed through Bulwer the worst of the potholes are behind you, the road is mostly devoid of pedestrians and livestock and the remainder of your journey into Underberg is very scenic. The dirt road from Himeville to the Cobham entry point is also quite pleasant but you can expect cow jams in the early morning as the dairy herds make their way to or from milking.

Parking: 4/5

Cars must be parked in the area reserved for hikers about 100 metres beyond the Pholela Hut. There is quite a bit of shade there and you may even find some shelter from hail for your vehicle.

Toilet facilities: 5/5

Hikers may make use of the facilities at the Pholela Hut or down at the caravan park and campsite. The men’s ablution facilities accessed from the side of the hut are in need of attention – the shower does not have hot water. This means that the two internal showers are co-ed. The campsite ablution block is a rustic wooden structure.

Washing facilities: 5/5

There are hot showers at the Pholela Hut and at the campsite. In good weather a dip in the Pholela River under the suspension bridge below the campsite may be more appealing.

Sales: 3/5

Cold drinks, beers and a very few other commodities are available at the reception desk in the thatched office block near the entrance gate to the Cobham Wilderness Area. You can usually purchase maps here too.

Atmosphere: 5/5

What can be more welcoming than a hut dedicated to hiking at your starting point? Cobham has an air of rustic, unsophisticated elegance and even when the campsite is full of visitors you can still find a place to unwind and relax after your hike.

Overall rating: 26/30

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