The Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife entry point for the Garden Castle Wilderness Area lies beyond the Gooderson Drakensberg Gardens Golf and Spa Resort and you must drive through the resort property to reach it. The resort and its facilities are solely for paying guests and hikers are not permitted to go up to the hotel restaurant or bar. The main tar road to the resort entrance, as well as the tar road up to the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife office, are very badly potholed. The main road meets the R617 on the Underberg side of the bridge over the Umzimkhulu River. This is a very picturesque area, with the Drakensberg forming the backdrop to the hugely productive dairy farms in the district.
Should you need to stay over before or after your hike, besides the Gooderson resort there are many other options nearby, including Castleburn, Eland Valley and Lake Naverone, the Swiman trail hut on the Giant’s Cup Trail which can be reached by car, and the Hermit’s Wood campsite near the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife office. The Eland Valley Trading Store is a handy place to get fresh supplies.
A nice feature for hikers is that a route in almost any direction starts off over relatively level ground. The Giant’s Cup Trail can be followed from the Swiman Hut through to Bushman’s Nek and is ideal for those who are not confident enough to follow their own route. The seldom-used Bushman’s Nek trail hut can serve as a comfortable overnight turnaround point. There is also a well-used path up to Sleeping Beauty Cave and Engagement Cave, although the level start soon gives way to a steep climb and several river crossings. Another popular option is the well-used route up to Pillar Cave and its annex. From there, the fitter and more daring can climb Mashai Pass to summit Rhino Peak (3051 metres).
There are many overnight caves in the Garden Castle Wilderness Area, including Corncob Cave, Mzimude Cave and Sandleni Cave which are on the escarpment. The caves lying north of the entry point (viz. Wilson’s, Verkyker, Fun and John’s caves) can be reached from the office, but more usually they are approached via Castle View farm. Please ask the office staff for the owner’s contact details and get permission from him to cross his farm well in advance of your hike.
There are many passes onto the escarpment in the area, Mashai Pass being the most used because it allows day-trippers from the resorts to climb Rhino Peak. This pass is consequently badly eroded and a head for heights is necessary in some places. Some of the passes are relatively easy (e.g. Stones Passes and the northern-most Umzimkhulu Pass). The southern Pitsaneng Pass has a crux and the northern one is quite dangerous, as is the northern Mzimude Pass. Bollard Pass is also very challenging. Rhino Pass has a reputation as a killer, but if you research the route and stick to it, it is actually quite pleasant except for the very long approach from below.
Besides Rhino Peak, there are several other prominent peaks in the area, some of the most obvious ones being No Man’s Peak, Verkyker Peak, Wilson’s Peak, Mashai, Mzimude and Walker’s Peak.
Road access: 4/5
The district road off the R617 is heavily potholed tar, but it does allow a standard sedan to reach the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife office at Garden Castle. There is one causeway to cross just below the office. This may present a problem for a low vehicle immediately after heavy rain, but it quickly subsides. It is not uncommon to find a vehicle’s handbrake seized after returning from a hike, a result of water from the causeway being trapped in the brake drums and not having time to dry out before the vehicle is parked. The track to the Hermit’s Wood campsite may present a problem for a low-slung car though.
Parking: 5/5
Vehicles must be left in the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife car park about 50 metres from the office. This is also where resort guests and other day-trippers must leave their vehicles so it can get quite busy. While the gum trees can provide shade, it is best to park in the open in windy or snow conditions so that your vehicle does not get damaged by falling branches.
Toilet facilities: 5/5
There are well-maintained toilets in the office building. There are single toilets at Hermit’s Wood campsite, and more up at the Swiman trail hut.
Washing facilities: 4/5
There is no place to shower and clean up at the office. If the Hermit’s Wood campsite is not in use, hikers are allowed to shower there. You can either walk through the forest about 100 metres, or drive around in your vehicle. The ablutions are equipped with a gas geyser, but are semi-see-through and quite breezy. Most hikers will appreciate the hot water and rustic appeal. Campers do not like sharing their facilities with hikers, so if the campsite is in use, or if it is a really cold winter day, the Swiman trail hut may be available, but check with the office staff first. You will need to drive to the hut because it is about 400 metres away by foot. Failing all else, the Mlambonja River is a fun alternative. If you don’t mind rubbing shoulders with the tourists, you can even join them at Hippo Pools!
Sales: 2/5
The once well-stocked Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife office shop only has a few trinkets on offer these days, and maybe some hiking maps. If it is open, you can call in at the Eland Valley Trading Store on your way back to Underberg and buy a pie, cooldrink or ice-cream. You can stop in at The Olde Duck restaurant for a meal just before getting back onto the R617. The Underberg Spar has got to be one of the best-stocked Spars in the country and is well worth a visit. There are also many other restaurants in Underberg itself, one of the most popular being the Lemon Tree Bistro.
Atmosphere: 5/5
Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Garden Castle entry point is a delightful place to start and end a hike. Despite having to run the gauntlet of a high-end resort to reach it, it has a secluded, welcoming atmosphere with nice facilities and good parking.